36 Hours
36 Hours in Prague
Prague, the Czech capital, is finding a new balance between preserving its past and embracing the future, improving many of its important historic sites while making striking additions to its skyline. A reset on tourism during the pandemic has left the city feeling more focused on local residents, with many new parks, bike trails, pedestrian bridges and other amenities showing up outside the historic center. The best new cafes, bars and restaurants, as well, are often found outside Old Town, in neighborhoods like Dejvice, Vinohrady, Holesovice, Karlin and New Town. Stop by for a coffee, hit up one of the many great new bakeries or visit a charismatic old beer hall as you explore a city that is clearly entering its prime.
Recommendations
- The area around Masaryk Railway Station is undergoing a major transformation, with several landmark buildings by Zaha Hadid Architects complementing the 19th-century train hall.
- The trendy Karlin and Holesovice neighborhoods are now connected by a new footbridge that also leads to Stvanice, an island in the Vltava River.
- The Southern Gardens and the recently reopened Stag Moat at the must-see Prague Castle offer quiet and calm away from the crowds.
- The Kunsthalle museum, which opened in 2022, showcases contemporary and modern art over three sprawling floors. On Sundays, the gallery’s bistro offers a two-part brunch to fuel a day of viewing art.
- Masarycka is a restaurant that combines the neoclassical décor of the Masaryk Railway Station with a contemporary beer hall atmosphere.
- Bohemia Goose is the newest brewery in a city that truly loves beer.
- Sodo is an intimate bistro with excellent coffee and a menu featuring locally uncommon ingredients.
- Misto is one of the best places for coffee and breakfast in a neighborhood filled with many great contenders.
- Automat Matuska serves Texas-style barbecue and craft beer to a mostly young crowd.
- Alma serves funky fermentations from its “lab” as well as clever updates to Central European fare.
- The Vysehrad fortress has cave-like chambers and tunnels to explore.
- Baden Baden Stvanice, a century-old public bathing area where artistic locals cool off, drink and tan, has reopened after a long closure.
- The Clam-Gallas Palace, which was recently restored, is a masterpiece of Baroque architecture with ballrooms and grand staircases to gawk at.
- Boho sells fashion and jewelry from local artisans at its all-day cafe.
- The Czechdesign shop sells souvenirs from local designers like Prague-themed socks, and porcelain bowls shaped like the Czech Republic.
- Andaz Prague, part of a small boutique chain owned by Hyatt, opened in 2022 in the Cukrovarnicky Palac, or Sugar Palace, a 1916 industrial building close to the Jerusalem Synagogue. Doubles from around 370 euros (Czech hotels tend to list prices in euros, not the local koruna), about $405.
- Falkensteiner Hotel Prague, a branch of an upscale Austrian resort chain, offers recently refurbished rooms with bold color schemes not far from Prague’s main train station and Wenceslas Square. Doubles from around €199.
- Hotel Cube offers ultra-modern design in a quiet area south of Narodni Boulevard, not far from Alma and the Czechdesign shop. Doubles from around €135.
- For short-term rentals, look in Vinohrady, Dejvice or Karlin, all of which have plenty of amenities, as well as good access to public transportation.
- The best way to get around Prague is via tram or the metro, either using individual tickets or the Prague Visitor Pass, which offers unlimited rides, as well as free entry to many museums. Much of the historic center is best explored on foot. Avoid taking cabs off the street because of scams. Uber is available, though ride-hailing apps are rarely used by residents.
Itinerary
Friday
Saturday
Sunday