BIG FUN ON THE BAYOU

Bagel burgers think outside the bun

Terry Trahan Jr. Big Fun on the Bayou
The perfectly baked Asiago bagel aside, New York Bagel Cafe's burger is a half-pounder that locks in its juices and delivers a rich meaty flavor as soon as the incisors breach the thin char coating the patty.

[Terry Trahan Jr./Big Fun on the Bayou-houmatoday/dailycomet]

Give the choice of a bagel or a biscuit to someone in bayou country and the latter wins out more often than not.

Bagels tend to be the bread option that needs a specific occasion to be appreciated, like enjoying a gourmet breakfast.

Visiting New York Bagel Cafe at 520 Barrow St. in Houma will give you many reasons to appreciate the classic bagel. You could start with a traditional breakfast, but I suggest you really think outside the bun and opt for the cafe's signature bagel burger.

You read right: a burger sandwiched between an authentic New York-style bagel, complete with melted American cheese, lettuce, pickles, ketchup and mustard. When I first discovered the bagel burger on the menu, I was unsure how a thick beef patty would pair with such a dense bread. After one bite, I was sold. This is a burger experience unlike any other you've ever had.

The perfectly baked Asiago bagel aside, New York Bagel Cafe's burger is a half-pounder that locks in its juices and delivers a rich meaty flavor as soon as the incisors breach the thin char coating the patty. Blanketing the patty is a thick slice of smooth American cheese that softens the texture of the burger and neutralizes the saltiness of the beef. The dill pickle chips bring a hint of tanginess that any classic burger needs, while the ketchup and mustard keep things moist between the otherwise dry bagel.

A dry bagel isn't a bad thing. In fact, New York Bagel Cafe's version of this Jewish culinary staple is among the best executed you'll find in bayou country. The cafe offers a full selection of flavors. The Asiago bagel I chose for my burger was a no-brainer because of its added cheese content. If you've ever wondered what an Italian burger might taste like, this is it.

New York Bagel Cafe's Asiago bagel is dense and firm on the outside and chewy on the inside, where it softens up and becomes the bun it should be. The outer crust packs flavors that would be right at home on a pizza but aren't overpowering for the classic ingredients between the bagel. The bread is dense and the beef patty is dense, so the two together make for one full bite. But it all works, better than you'd ever expect.

On the side, New York Bagel Cafe offers a choice of a small salad, potato chips or house-made bagel chips. Be brave and choose the latter, thinly sliced bagel pieces that are baked evenly and tossed in a conservative seasoning blend. I dipped my bagel chips in ranch, but the cafe's cream cheese spread is also a popular option. The bagel chips alone would make a great snack, especially if paired with smooth, creamy tuna or chicken salad, or even shrimp dip.

They may not come out and say it, but New York Bagel Cafe challenges you to think outside the bun. Their bagel burger certainly does that and proves to be a surprisingly satisfying sandwich.