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Hainanese Chicken Rice

Sliced chicken breast with rice and chile sauce.
Photo by Greg Elms

While Hainanese chicken rice is practically the national dish of Singapore, this dish, made famous by my ancestors, is not that common in Hong Kong. Perhaps this has something to do with the relatively small Hainanese community in the city, but everyone I’ve spoken to knows of this legendary dish. It isn’t difficult to make. You need a good free-range chicken and, after poaching the bird, the stock is used to steam the rice and to make the soup. The chicken is dressed and served with a dipping sauce. 

Where to find this delicious chicken in Hong Kong? As well as at Hainan Shaoye in Kowloon, it’s on the menu of the Grand Café at the Grand Hyatt, Café Causette at the Mandarin Oriental, and Café Malacca over in Sai Wan. 

If you live somewhere where this dish isn’t widely available, though, it’s definitely worth making at home. In the time-honored tradition, this Hainanese chicken rice recipe has been handed down from my mother and her mother before her.

Ingredients

Serves 4-6

4 lb. free-range chicken
½ oz. (15 g) ginger, bashed with the side of a knife
2 scallions, chopped
1 bunch watercress, leaves picked
1 small cucumber, sliced crossways
Cilantro sprigs, to serve (optional)

For the chile sauce

6–8 long red chiles, chopped
¾ oz. (20 g) ginger, sliced
4 garlic cloves
Juice of 2 limes
Chicken fat from the stock, to taste (optional)

For the rice

5 red Asian shallots, thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
3 cups (1 lb. 5 oz.) jasmine rice, rinsed and drained
2 pandan leaves, tied into a knot
3½ cups (30 oz.) chicken stock

For the dressing

2 Tbsp. light soy sauce
½ tsp. sesame oil
3½ oz. chicken stock

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Remove the pads of fat from the chicken cavity and reserve. Rub the chicken inside and out with 2 tsp. salt. Loop cotton string around and under the wings and across the breast, then set aside for 30 minutes to come to room temperature.

    Step 2

    Meanwhile, to make the chile sauce, pound the ingredients except the lime juice with a mortar and pestle to a grainy paste (not too fine). Add the lime juice, season with salt and chicken fat to taste, if using, and mix well. Set aside.

    Step 3

    Put the ginger, spring onions, 16 cups water and 1 tsp. salt in a large stockpot and bring to the boil. Holding the chicken by the string, lower it into the boiling stock, submerge for 60 seconds, then lift the chicken out, allowing the water to drain from the cavity. Repeat this a couple of times, bringing the stock back to the boil between each submersion. This process ensures the water circulating in the bird is hot enough for even cooking. Submerge the chicken again, bring the stock back to the boil, then reduce to a gentle simmer, cover and cook for 20 minutes.

    Step 4

    Cover the pan with a lid, turn off the heat and leave the chicken for 40 minutes to finish cooking. Lift out the chicken, being careful not to break the skin. Let the stock drain from the cavity, then plunge the bird into a bath of ice water to stop cooking. Leave for 20 minutes, then remove, gently pat dry with paper towel and set aside. Reserve the chicken stock.

    Step 5

    To prepare the rice, chop the reserved chicken fat and stir in a wok over medium heat until the fat renders, then discard the solids (or heat 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil in a wok). Add the shallots and fry until golden, then add the garlic and fry for a further minute. Add the rice and fry until it begins to pop. Transfer to a saucepan (or a rice cooker). Add the pandan leaves and pour in the reserved hot stock to cover the rice by ¾ inch. Increase the heat to high, bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to low, cover with a tightly fitting lid and cook until liquid is absorbed (11–12 minutes). Remove from the heat, remove lid, cover with a tea towel and leave for 5 minutes to steam dry.

    Step 6

    Meanwhile, to make the dressing, combine the ingredients in a bowl. To make the soup, add the watercress to the remaining stock. Adjust the seasoning with salt and white pepper.

    Step 7

    Cut up the chicken Chinese-style: Use a cleaver to split the bird down the middle through the breastplate and backbone, then remove the legs and halve them at the joint. Remove and halve the wings in the same manner. Halve the breasts lengthways and cut into thick slices. Arrange on a platter with the sliced cucumber.

    Step 8

    Pour the dressing over the chicken and garnish with cilantro sprigs, if using. Serve with separate bowls of rice and watercress broth and chile sauce on the side.

Cookbook of Hong Kong Food City by Tony Tan.
Excerpted from Hong Kong Food City by Tony Tan, photography by Greg Elms. Murdoch Books, RRP US$29.99. Buy the book from Murdoch Books, Bookshop, or Amazon.

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