Prague is the beating heart of Europe, with cathedrals, castles and cruises on the quiet Vltava

Prague, the Czech capital, is a magical city almost in the heart of Europe. It is filled with bridges, churches, cathedral spires, ancient buildings and cobbled pathways.

Lording over them is the imposing Prague Castle. Meanwhile, the serene Vltava flows beneath the romantic Charles Bridge. So legendary is Prague’s skyline that it has inspired one of the most haunting pieces of music — Czech composer Bedrich Smetana’s Moldau.

It has amassed various epithets over the centuries: the City of a Hundred Spires, Heart of Europe, Golden City and, more recently, the Beer Capital of Europe. It is no surprise that Prague tends to endear itself to every kind of traveller.

St Vitus Cathedral

Prague is often referred to as a 9th century city and the seat of the Bohemian kings, but much of its legendary skyline developed later.

The Old Town Square is the most dramatic part of the ancient city and is filled with stunning structures which include the Old Town Hall and Astronomical Clock, St Nicholas Church and the Church of Our Lady before Tyn.

Equally imposing is the Prague Castle, which stands on a high ground across the river and is a mix of various architectural styles. Dominating the complex is the 14th century St Vitus Cathedral with stunning interiors, stained glass windows, majestic arches, flying buttresses and exquisite sculptures and embellishments.

Stained-glass window of St Vitus

Leading down from the cathedral is the Lesser Town amidst which is the Golden Lane. It ultimately leads to Charles Bridge, Prague’s most celebrated bridge built in the mid-14th century , with its 30 baroque statues. One of them is St John of Nepomuk with a halo of five stars; people believe that touching the statue will bring them back to Prague.

Kafka to Kundera
Prague was home to some of the most noted, controversial and erudite personalities.

But there is one overriding figure who’s hard to escape, no matter where you turn in Prague — the surrealist writer Franz Kafka. He is everywhere — in the Jewish Quarter and Golden Lane where he stayed, in Cafe Louvre where he frequented, and in the sculptures, souvenirs and trinkets that recall him.

Prague Castle

For hardcore literary buffs, Prague is also the city that nurtured Milan Kundera and Jan Neruda to name a few.

Idly Flows the Vitava
It is difficult to sit still in Prague. There is so much to see and do, and every corner holds something of interest. But idlers and lotus eaters need not despair.

The Vitava, which flows through the city, is ideal for cruises, with only the boatman’s dulcet tones to interrupt your musings. This is also the only way to glimpse the underside of Charles Bridge. It also provides a peek into a water mill and some beautiful houses that sit on the river’s banks.

Beer Spa, Anyone?
You cannot come to Prague and not have the city’s famous beers. In fact, Prague has been making serious claims to the epithet of Beer Capital. From large batch beers such as Pilsner and Kozel to craft breweries that produce delicious small-batch beers in unusual flavours, there’s no dearth of choice.
The beer spa- At the beer spa, you can lie in a vat of beer, drinking to your heart’s content. But don’t forget the food. Czech food is hearty, wholesome and meat-based

And if sitting in a pub, pavement cafe or lounge seems passe, then get a group of like-minded beer guzzlers and hop on a pedal pub (party bike) where you pedal your way around town while having beer. And then there’s the ultimate indulgence of them all: a beer spa where you can lie in a vat of beer while you drink to your heart’s content.


Don’t forget the food. Czech food is hearty, wholesome and meat-based: succulent roast pork, juicy sausages, delectable c, rich goulash called gulas, dumplings called knedliky and marinated cheese are some common dishes and are accompanied by roast potatoes, sauerkraut and fresh seasonal vegetables that are usually steamed.

FACT FILE
Prague is the capital of Czech Republic. The local currency is Czech koruna (1 CZK = approx Rs 3.50)

HOW TO REACH: There are no direct flights from India to Prague. Book a carrier with transit in the Middle East or Europe.

WHERE TO STAY: Located within walking distance of Prague Old Town, the 987 Prague (upward of Rs 5,800 a night) is a trendy hotel with spacious rooms and stylish décor. The Pentahotel Prague (from Rs 9,600) is located a few kilometres from the city centre, surrounded by green parks.

In the heart of the old town is Hotel Clementin (upwards of Rs 6,200) whose ancestry goes back a few centuries.

WHEN TO VISIT: Spring (March to May) is the best time to visit and it may get hot after that. Autumn (September to November) is cool while winter (December to February) with intermittent snowfall has a charm of its own.

Anita Rao-Kashi is a Bengaluru-based travel writer.