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Mnemon
Joined: 03 Oct 2013 Posts: 3
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Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 12:23 pm Post subject: Splotch of Fungus / Miranda 24 mm f2.8 |
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Mnemon wrote:
Hej,
I got this one for next to nothing through e-bay - was marked as having a little fungus (which is why it went cheap) - it fills a gap in my lens selection and I am on a budget. I'd really like to get rid of the fungus, of course.
1. How do you figure out if the Fungus is growing on top of the lens (outside) or [as is of course more likely] on the inside? Hard to tell really just by looking at it.
2. I don't mind going at it DIY - but I don't have lens spanner and a fitting plug to open it up. I don't think I will buy additional lenses for a good while (with this one added in I cover most of the range from 24mm up to 300mm with varying primes) - so this really would be a one off operation. Not sure it's worth it buying tools thus [the lens spanner would be more than what I paid for the lens ]? Is there anyone out there, by chance, that has fitting tools and is near Liverpool / Manchester? Would it make sense sending it in somewhere (recommendations)? Any other alternative suggestions how I might have a go at this?
[3. This one was just one of a series of bargain lenses I just grabbed, so even if this takes a while I'll be happy playing with the others. Wheee!]
Thank you,
-Mnemon[url][/url]
Last edited by Mnemon on Thu Oct 03, 2013 12:43 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7787 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 12:40 pm Post subject: Re: Splotch of Fungus / Miranda 24 mm f2.8 |
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Lloydy wrote:
Mnemon wrote: |
Hej,
I got this one for next to nothing through e-bay - was marked as having a little fungus (which is why it went cheap) - it fills a gap in my lens selection and I am on a budget. I'd really like to get rid of the fungus, of course.
1. How do you figure out if the Fungus is growing on top of the lens (outside) or [as is of course more likely] on the inside? Hard to tell really just by looking at it.
2. I don't mind going at it DIY - but I don't have lens spanner and a fitting plug to open it up. I don't think I will buy additional lenses for a good while (with this one added in I cover most of the range from 24mm up to 300mm with varying primes) - so this really would be a one off operation. Not sure it's worth it buying tools thus [the lens spanner would be more than what I paid for the lens ]? Is there anyone out there, by chance, that has fitting tools and is near Liverpool / Manchester? Would it make sense sending it in somewhere (recommendations)? Any other alternative suggestions how I might have a go at this?
[3. This one was just one of a series of bargain lenses I just grabbed, so even if this takes a while I'll be happy playing with the others. Wheee!]
Thank you,
-Mnemon |
copied to show your images, they don't show on first posts - it's anit spam. _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
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Mnemon
Joined: 03 Oct 2013 Posts: 3
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Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 12:43 pm Post subject: |
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Mnemon wrote:
Thank you! |
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7787 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 12:45 pm Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
At that size and position I would live with it, keep the lens in plenty of sunlight for a while, and dry, and the fungus will die. The UV light kills it.
I've never had a Miranda apart, but I don't imagine it will be difficult to remove the front name ring and the front element then soak the element in cold cream for 30 minutes or so and clean the fungus off. It doesn't look old and established, which is the dangerous thing as then the fungus can etch the glass. _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
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Mnemon
Joined: 03 Oct 2013 Posts: 3
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Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 1:55 pm Post subject: |
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Mnemon wrote:
Ok. Put it under a skylight and will leave it there for a few days, for now. Would a UV lamp help / be useful? [I'd guess sunlight has more UV radiation than an 'artificial' source?].
Do have the feeling that it might sit on the top of the lens, or, if not that, likely on the underside of the front element - but as I said it's hard to tell, really. Will probably try cold cream on the lens without opening it up first and see if that helps.
Yes - it's unconspicuous and not that badly placed which is why I pounced when I saw it. |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 2:17 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Fungus will not regress, but if you keep the lens dry, clean, and in a luminous environment, it will not progress either.
I recommend keeping it inside a transparent plastic box, with silica gel inside, and to keep the box in a luminous position inside your house.
That fungus spot, in that position, normally would not affect your photos, but a 24mm lens is very short focal lenght so if you stop down,
it may appear on your photos, if you use a full frame camera.
If your camera is APS-C or smaller, it will never appear in the photos. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5019 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 2:21 pm Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
Not disagreeing with anyone but when you think about it, and as nothing can live without water, then keeping something dry is most important. Unless someone has seen a report that on opening a tomb in Egypt, it was covered in mushrooms or fungus had destroyed everything non metallic _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10569 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 3:46 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Orio wrote: |
...
That fungus spot, in that position, normally would not affect your photos, but a 24mm lens is very short focal lenght so if you stop down,
it may appear on your photos, if you use a full frame camera.
If your camera is APS-C or smaller, it will never appear in the photos. |
A central spot might show stopped down, due to increase in DOF. However, closing the aperture will cut light entering the lens perimeter -- a perimeter spot will never appear in frame when aperture is closed slightly, because closing aperture cuts off light entering lens perimeter from reaching film/sensor. Full frame or Crop doesn't matter.
Crop APS-C uses only part of the FF image circle, correct. However, consider a point source of light mid-frame: some light rays pass through the lens perimeter to the center of film/sensor (unless aperture is stopped down, cutting off perimeter rays) -- again, full frame or crop doesn't matter here either -- spot will show (tiny) in bokeh highlights unless lens is stopped down, similar to showing mirror lens bokeh highlight doughnuts. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 4:24 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
visualopsins wrote: |
A central spot might show stopped down, due to increase in DOF. However, closing the aperture will cut light entering the lens perimeter -- a perimeter spot will never appear in frame when aperture is closed slightly, because closing aperture cuts off light entering lens perimeter from reaching film/sensor. Full frame or Crop doesn't matter. |
This is what a Contax Distagon 18mm with fungus does. Stopped down... :
... and wide open !!!!! :
And note, it was front glass!
Rear glass would be even worse. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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guardian
Joined: 18 Mar 2009 Posts: 1749
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Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 8:01 pm Post subject: |
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guardian wrote:
Well JMHO, but I'm not even certain that splotch on the OP's lens is even fungus. To me it could as easily be a bit of errant helicoid lube.
In any event it does not appear especially serious. Sooner or later a bit of bench time and it can be eradicated, methinks, in a jiffy. |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10569 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Fri Oct 04, 2013 12:29 am Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Orio wrote: |
visualopsins wrote: |
A central spot might show stopped down, due to increase in DOF. However, closing the aperture will cut light entering the lens perimeter -- a perimeter spot will never appear in frame when aperture is closed slightly, because closing aperture cuts off light entering lens perimeter from reaching film/sensor. Full frame or Crop doesn't matter. |
This is what a Contax Distagon 18mm with fungus does. Stopped down... :
[pic]
... and wide open !!!!! :
[pic]
And note, it was front glass!
Rear glass would be even worse. |
This is good example of centrally located fungus showing more as lens is stopped down, due to increase in DOF.
A perimeter located fungus might show with lens wide open, but not when lens is stopped down, because the rays from the lens perimeter get cut off as aperture gets closed. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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